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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Mods so far -

Performance:
RV6 Catted DP
AEM CAI
Hondata Flashpro - Tuned by VitViper

Appearance:
Debadged
32% Tint

Interior:
Dynamat all over
Open cell foam in windows (for wind noise)

Right out of the box - AEM CAI 21-716C
AEMCAI.jpg
Installed - it just happened to match my car color!
CAI.jpg
It goes down right into behind the fog light.
Filter.jpg



The Intake is effectively pulling temps right above ambient.. anywhere from 2-5F over ambient during WOT.
The intake DEFINITELY made the motor sound AMAZING.. it added a DEEP sound at WOT without affecting regular driving. I also noticed increased throttle response.

RV-6 Catted DP
Out of the box
DP.jpg
After Hi-Temp coating..
CoatedDP.jpg

The downpipe added some rasp at certain RPMs and on cold starts, but overall I would recommend this to anyone. It's also known to be the biggest bang for the buck on the K24. Adding over 10WHP before a tune.

**Post wont allow over 5 photos**
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #4
just awesome.

I can't wait for the dyno numbers. Guys at heeltoe are great. I've bought a few things from them before for the TL.

My RV6 True Dual Exhaust + HPFC + Jpipe should be here mid May. I am pretty damn excited.
Thanks. VitViper is on the 5th revision of my tune and we haven't even started on logging pulls into VTEC. You can tell the car really likes to breathe, so much deeper at WOT now.

RV6 makes some real quality parts.. the stainless steel was so pretty and I wouldn't of changed it but the coating will help with heatsoak, and keep the exhaust heat away from the motor. I considered going 3" all the way but it's a bit too loud and only gains about 5WHP over 2.5" piping. The 2.5" also fits better, lower risk of scraping or snagging on the ground and it's quieter.

The CT-E beta tester had a 2.5" exhaust set-up and he made 270whp/240wtq on the 3.6" pulley (Stage 1) and 340whp/260wtq on the 3.15" pulley (Stage 2). I have the injectors for Stage 2 but I am going to run Stage 1 until my car is completely paid for and I get an aftercooler setup.

Next step is suspension but I am trying to space it out a bit, that way I can enjoy each of my mods, respectively.

* I also got quoted for the LSD installation which is $1600 including parts and labor. That's for a Civic Si direct LSD swap.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Awesome. Can't wait to see that shit.

Doing the work yourself?
I will be doing everything within my tool-means. I tried to do the DP but I didn't have the extenders to get to it properly, I paid my friends shop $75 to install it. Everything else outside of tuning is and will be all me; well minus the LSD.. I don't know the first thing about installing a diff. :)
 

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nice to see a build like this. I'm pretty sure after your success many will follow with this set up. Are you running bigger injectorss and a different fuel pump?
 

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Not sure what type of supercharger it is but Im guessing its a roots/scroll type like on the kit previously for the k24 on the tsx. For any scroll type you can expect a whine type sound throughout the rev band getting louder as you move upwards i the revs. and a centrifugal barely makes any sound except for at idle.

WOT means wode open throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I am going to be running 750cc injectors with the stock fuel pump, right around 7lbs of boost..

I had an 03 Cobra which had an Eaton (roots-style) blower and it's whine was AMAZING! I really wanted the SC for the sound as much as the power.. The K24 CT-E kit IS also an Eaton charger, so there will be whine!

And, yep! WOT means wide open throttle.


Thanks guys, hope to get some videos up soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I would like to say I am actually going conservative.. Over 330WHP is EASILY obtained on this car with Stage 2...

Maybe even closer to 350WHP with aftercooler and 3" exhaust.. I just cant justify doing that without the suspension, brakes and LSD personally but it's there for the power hungry.
 

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To answer ilx style isnt it the supercharger used in the endurance ilx?

And do you own your ilx already? Cause damn thats all im waitin on.


You may be able to answer this. An argument started between a buddy on mine about calling something stage 1, 2 or 3. What does each stage mean?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
To answer ilx style isnt it the supercharger used in the endurance ilx?

And do you own your ilx already? Cause damn thats all im waitin on.


You may be able to answer this. An argument started between a buddy on mine about calling something stage 1, 2 or 3. What does each stage mean?
It's the supercharger the SEMA show ILX used. The Endurance Racer was naturally aspirated.

I don't, but I will be paying it off early.

The stages are only relevant to the shop or aftermarket company making products.

Say for instance: CT-Engineering makes this supercharger in a Stage 1 package and Stage 2 package.. The basic difference is that Stage 1 is a 3.6" pulley w/ 550cc injectors and the Stage 2 is 3.15" pulley and 750cc injectors.

A nationally known GT-R shop in my area called Jotech makes "Stages" for each packages of work they do.. Stage 1 will be things like Cold Air Intake and tune, Stage 2 will be like intake, tune AND full exhaust, stage 3 might be a turbo or something. APR works on German cars, say on the VW GTI their Stage 1 is just a ECU Tune.

So, basically if the aftermarket company isn't calling their packages "stage this or that" then it has no relevance to a basic build. It's just a marketing ploy I feel.. Like "yo I got DAT stage 3 dude.. Totes makes like mad powerrrr"

Hope this helps clear that up!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Aaaah. Makes sense now.
Stages arent common talk in... late era honda and acuras. LOL Can I call it that.
Neither was wide open throttle. It was just more air to make more power.
We like to call it: "The Good Ol' Days"

Lol! But, yeah it's just common to swap "pedal to the metal", "mash the gas" to "wide open throttle (or WOT)"

;)
 

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I think you would get more gains if you get a 9 psi pulley (3-3.2") closer to your desired 330whp and maybe you could try getting your throttle body bored.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think you would get more gains if you get a 9 psi pulley (3-3.2") closer to your desired 330whp and maybe you could try getting your throttle body bored.
3.15" pulley is going to net over 330whp @ 10psi with my mods as is. I just don't need all the power without having 1) a LSD 2) a suspension set up 3) aftercooler (you can run it without but I personally am not comfortable with it) 4) brakes capable of stopping all that quickly.

I am assuming ill hit my goal and be between 260-270whp
 

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3.15" pulley is going to net over 330whp @ 10psi with my mods as is. I just don't need all the power without having 1) a LSD 2) a suspension set up 3) aftercooler (you can run it without but I personally am not comfortable with it) 4) brakes capable of stopping all that quickly.

I am assuming ill hit my goal and be between 260-270whp
At least you understand what's needed every time you up the power output rather than cranking up the power output of your ILX and leaving the rest.

260-270whp is amazing for a daily driver, i'll love to see the dyno chart if you plan on hitting a dyno once you reach that stage. power curve will be interesting to see.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
At least you understand what's needed every time you up the power output rather than cranking up the power output of your ILX and leaving the rest.

260-270whp is amazing for a daily driver, i'll love to see the dyno chart if you plan on hitting a dyno once you reach that stage. power curve will be interesting to see.
You definitely have to build a whole car!

I have to agree though 260-270whp is basically 300 to the crank, don't need more than that on a daily. It shouldn't affect my fuel mileage much due to it having a bypass valve.. Truly excited. I will be updating this thread as I go.

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