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Discussion Starter #1
I have the 6-speaker stereo system and would like to at least replace the speakers and possibly add an amp. I'm assuming the speakers are 6.5"? Can anyone recommend some higher-end replacements that fit well and possibly post how to disassemble the door panels?
 

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I believe Pioneer has a line of 6.5 Inch Speakers, ranging from cheap ones you can buy at wal-mart to better ones at best buy and order through audio shops.

As for taking the door panel apart, I haven't seen anyone do it but it should be just a bunch of clips and screws to remove. I guess if you have the time to figure it out you can hack at it and be one of the first!
 

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You'll have to verify the current speaker OHM levels as well as the current AMP.. This is going to be tricky because you can't swap the head unit. Do you have a Base, Premium or Tech? I suggest investing in Dynamat or another like insulation before replacing the speakers you already paid for. More bang for your buck.. if you do try to install random speakers without verifying the wattage, channels, ohms, ect.. goodluck getting Acura to fix all the damage you might do in the process.
 

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You'll have to verify the current speaker OHM levels as well as the current AMP.. This is going to be tricky because you can't swap the head unit. Do you have a Base, Premium or Tech? I suggest investing in Dynamat or another like insulation before replacing the speakers you already paid for. More bang for your buck.. if you do try to install random speakers without verifying the wattage, channels, ohms, ect.. goodluck getting Acura to fix all the damage you might do in the process.
Really good point on dynamat, dynamat alone does help big time with sound quality. But before he goes that far....black321, are you planning to keep your ILX for long? I heard dynamat can get pricey and I can only see this being worth while to do if it's a car you plan on keeping for a long time.

Now say if your leasing it and still want to dynamat, how easy would it be to remove the dynamat? is their gonna be a ton of the sticky residue left over or what
 

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Thanks, Ive heard of dynamat...but i have the base system and am interested in upgrading to a significantly better speaker. The current speaker is 2 ohms?...I dont believe the amp cares how many ohms the speakers have? In fact getting a higher ohm speaking such as a 4 ohm would put less demand on the amp, at the expense of the output being less powerful. The same amp can drive 50 watts into 2 ohms, and 25 watts into 4....I've replaced speakers successfully on my old Volvo S60 and other cars...usually getting the panel off is the hardest part, assuming you have the right type of speaker to fit...and getting the panel off usually involves a few easy tricks that I rather not "discover" on my own, ha. I also could put in a new amp, using the head unit simply as a preamp.
 

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Thanks, Ive heard of dynamat...but i have the base system and am interested in upgrading to a significantly better speaker. The current speaker is 2 ohms?...I dont believe the amp cares how many ohms the speakers have? In fact getting a higher ohm speaking such as a 4 ohm would put less demand on the amp, at the expense of the output being less powerful. The same amp can drive 50 watts into 2 ohms, and 25 watts into 4....I've replaced speakers successfully on my old Volvo S60 and other cars...usually getting the panel off is the hardest part, assuming you have the right type of speaker to fit...and getting the panel off usually involves a few easy tricks that I rather not "discover" on my own, ha. I also could put in a new amp, using the head unit simply as a preamp.
Change in OHM you have to calculate the change in power; the stress stays the same the Resistance is raised so the amp works just as hard. Goodluck with your install regardless.

Dynamat will trump any speaker modification you can make; that's a 100% guarantee.. unless you're just looking for more noise.

As far as removal of the dynamat.. I am not sure the Dealer would need to know and the residue can be removed easy enough.. just a little elbow time.
 

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Thanks, Ive heard of dynamat...but i have the base system and am interested in upgrading to a significantly better speaker. The current speaker is 2 ohms?...I dont believe the amp cares how many ohms the speakers have? In fact getting a higher ohm speaking such as a 4 ohm would put less demand on the amp, at the expense of the output being less powerful. The same amp can drive 50 watts into 2 ohms, and 25 watts into 4....I've replaced speakers successfully on my old Volvo S60 and other cars...usually getting the panel off is the hardest part, assuming you have the right type of speaker to fit...and getting the panel off usually involves a few easy tricks that I rather not "discover" on my own, ha. I also could put in a new amp, using the head unit simply as a preamp.
Smart man, I damaged a coupe door panels trying to discover how it comes apart. Mistaking an area that seems to have a clip for a screw and pulling that screw out and damaging the back......or even messing up the arm rest part.....fail!
 

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What is your budget range? You can get something nice even for chap like pioneer or infinity. But if you have some money to spend you should look in to alpine or MB quarts.
 

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It's not as simple as finding one that fits in size. Like Trent mentioned you have to find one that matches in specs. Probably easier to head to a professional car audio shop and ask them for advice.
Likely they will charge you a fee for consultation and effort to inspect the car.. but it would be well worth it in my opinion vs risk of damaging something or installing the incorrect products..

Did I mention that a sound deadening option is universal and will increase speaker performance?
 

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Did I mention that a sound deadening option is universal and will increase speaker performance?
You did, in a way.

I think this should be done first rather than installing bigger and better speakers. It's like buying aftermarket wheels for your car before lowering it, and it continues to look like a 4x4, only now it's a 4x4 with some bling.
 

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You did, in a way.

I think this should be done first rather than installing bigger and better speakers. It's like buying aftermarket wheels for your car before lowering it, and it continues to look like a 4x4, only now it's a 4x4 with some bling.
Bam /End thread
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It's a good idea, making the cabin quieter, but that will also only make the deficiencies of the existing stock speakers more obvious. Crutchfield usually does a good job matching compatible speakers with a factory head unit..but they still dont have anything available for the ILX. Not in a huge rush...will wait and see. Thanks.
 

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It's a good idea, making the cabin quieter, but that will also only make the deficiencies of the existing stock speakers more obvious.
It will make the stock speakers sound a huge amount better so I am not sure I understand your logic. Yes, upgrading to aftermarket speakers would increase clarity but dynamating your whole door will increase clarity, reduce road noise, and increase bass level/accuracy. Combine the Dynmat with the aftermarket speakers and you will see a substantial increase.

I am gonna tell you this much, you're not gonna see as much improvement with aftermarket speakers, no amp, and the level of vibrations the car already has in the panels and doors than you would with Dynamat.

My 2 pennies, 5 years experience, personally installed products in multiple orders on multiple cars and my own vehicles. This is my order of priority: Dynamat (or similar product) > Pre-amp/Equalizer (since the factory radio is statying) > 4 Channel Amp/Aftermarket speakers

I would be willing to bet $10,000 dollars that I could put my factory ILX with Dynamat'd doors and rear panel up against your aftermarket speakers-only ILX and outperform it in sound quality and loudness; THEN it will still have less panel vibration and road noise. Spend your money how you want, it is your money.. but I highly recommend in doing things the RIGHT way.
 

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I'd like to point out to you guys, with Dynamat (or similar products, though I haven't used them) it's not reducing road noise that is making your speakers better because you can hear them over the road.. it is LITERALLY changing the way your speakers act, because you're creating a box within the door, the speaker physically moves and because of this it is moving air in front of and behind it... this movement and bass causes the panel to vibrate, by layering the whole door with Dynamat you're reducting the physical energy (vibration) which reduces the sound of distortion coming from the panels it's self and rattles. ON TOP OF THAT.. now that the door is more sealed than previously your door ends up serving a similar purpose as a subwoofer box would. So, what you get is an increased level of bass return to cabin, also CLEANER and more ACCURATE. Because the speaker is acting more effeciently it will sound louder.

Vibration, Sound, road noise.. win
 

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I'd like to point out to you guys, with Dynamat (or similar products, though I haven't used them) it's not reducing road noise that is making your speakers better because you can hear them over the road.. it is LITERALLY changing the way your speakers act, because you're creating a box within the door, the speaker physically moves and because of this it is moving air in front of and behind it... this movement and bass causes the panel to vibrate, by layering the whole door with Dynamat you're reducting the physical energy (vibration) which reduces the sound of distortion coming from the panels it's self and rattles. ON TOP OF THAT.. now that the door is more sealed than previously your door ends up serving a similar purpose as a subwoofer box would. So, what you get is an increased level of bass return to cabin, also CLEANER and more ACCURATE. Because the speaker is acting more effeciently it will sound louder.

Vibration, Sound, road noise.. win
tbh I never knew that much about dynamat, the bass part you mentioned caught my attention cause having clean sounding bass is one of my priorities, i rather work with what I get from factory, improve it and then look into aftermarket audio if i feel i need it.
 

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All you need to do is the whole door and bam.. instant, clean bass! I, like you, would rather utilize part of the cost that was already factored into my purchasing price.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Trent, I plan to try this out first...as soon as I find a way to safely remove the door panel.
 
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