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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Before I get off on a negative foot.. I love my 2.4L - 6 Speed ILX.

Here's the truth though.. This car has the perfect motor/transmission combo for this class of vehicle. (despite my gripes about the gear ratios)

That's exactly where the ball stopped rolling. I get it, it's a "luxury" vehicle and if I wanted the Si's stiffness I should of bought one right? That's wrong in my opinion.. I maybe wrong on my numbers but the skidpad on the ILX is 8.1 and the Si is 8.8 or something close. This wouldn't be so bad if the ILX promoted confidence in turns.. In turns the car has a huge amount of body roll, likely cured by a rear sway bar. It loads and unloads unexpectantly, which is Acura's dual dampening they are using with the ILX, but it makes cornering to an extent scary.. The car is just not well planted at all. My concern is... why not make the 2.4 model a bit more firm? I dont care if they call it a Type-S.. It should of came with a rear sway bar, better tires (moar feedback less numb!).. I am not looking for Si stiff I am looking for CONFIDENT ILX
I guess in conclusion to my little rant.. I bought the car, I am happy with the car BUT.. If I am buying 2.4L - 6 Speed I obviously opt-ed for more fun and less luxury, why else would **I** want to shift the car? ESPECIALLY how Acura made the gears soooo short.. there is no excuse to why they didn't stiffen this car up..

I will fix mine in the aftermarket anyways but Acura should fix future ILX "Dynamic" models. (and I mean FIX)


** Also, I am gonna get into contact with Billistein and see if they plan any kind of coilover development for our cars, I will report back!

Supposedly; '12 Civic Si's rear sway bars will work on our cars.. I really feel this mod will improve the car DRASTICALLY as body roll is one of the most difficult feelings of the car to overcome.

For anyone curious a Civic Si's limited slip differential WILL fit our cars as we share powerplants.. The Honda authentic LSD is an $800 piece though and then installation will not be a walk in the park.

Coilover installation should be fairly easy, hopefully I will get some put on by spring/summer.. I will try to report back on status and hopefully a DIY thread.
 

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I agree with your rant. They basically gave us something along the lines of a performance model that has the power but horrible suspension and in a car like an ILX, it KILLS the driving experience especially when going through the turns. They should of done something like what Scion did with the FR-S....which is make EVERYTHING work together, the suspension complements the powertrain, they both work greatly.


In the ILX the suspension isn't fitting for the powertrain.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
These aftermarket groups really haven't taken a huge interest in the ILX.. I wish it was like the FR-S/BR-Z's.. their aftermarket in just a few months is larger than the aftermarket most cars get in their entire time cycle..

Anyways.. our car's issues (besides the gearing) can be remedied through suspension upgrades, better tires, power upgrades and I am starting to consider dynamating my trunk & 4 doors. I think that would remedy the body roll/numbness, give it that extra little umph to compete with it's current rivals and then eliminate some of that road noise and tire howl that is so promnent now.
 

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I agree with you 100%

I had the same feeling about my RSX Type S. It just felt like a detuned Integra Type R. And it was marketed as a luxury performance vehicle. I think Acura needs to really bring out the performance in their cars with better tuned suspension and stiffer chassis.

It's nothing that you can't fix with aftermarket support but I do find the ILX suspension to be too soft. The same goes for my TL Type S. For a Type S model I find the suspension in my RSX and TL to be too soft. They need to redeem themselves with a ILX Type S. I miss the old Acura Integra Type R (DC2). Just raw driving. Or the 2000 Civic Si... Good times.

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............ and I am starting to consider dynamating my trunk & 4 doors. I think that would remedy the body roll/numbness, give it that extra little umph to compete with it's current rivals and then eliminate some of that road noise and tire howl that is so promnent now.
Dynamat will insulate against the noise and heat but will do nothing for body roll ;if I understand the products properties properly
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Dynamat will insulate against the noise and heat but will do nothing for body roll ;if I understand the products properties properly
No, it won't. I was going over the 3 different things dynamat, power and suspension, lol sorry

I was an installer for dynamat for 5 years.. Its extremely effective for noise reduction BUT it makes your speakers sound 10x better
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Isn't that stuff pretty heavy once installed in a car? How much of it do you usually use for a coupe or sedan?
Right about 48lbs for all 4 doors, another 5ish for the back panel; then another 30-40 for the trunk.. it's worth it though. The noise reduction from the road, exhaust..ect is a sell alone BUT the speakers.. I KID YOU NOT.. will sound like a whole different sound system.. 10x better.
 

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don't mind me posting a video with gangsturr music but it's a great before and after of how dynamat improves the sound quality your getting, especially with bass. This is just from the outside...

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ahhhh. It would definitely be worth it if I invested in the audio system. My exhaust is likely going to be so loud I can't hear music so doesn't make a difference for me :D
It will reduce the exhaust sound inside the cabin.
 

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don't mind me posting a video with gangsturr music but it's a great before and after of how dynamat improves the sound quality your getting, especially with bass. This is just from the outside...

im not looking to run a powerful system like that but probably a nice small 10 inch subwoofer just to feel and hear some quality bass.
never tried this dynamat stuff but i will have to once i get my ILX.

How easy is it to apply and remove dynamat?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
im not looking to run a powerful system like that but probably a nice small 10 inch subwoofer just to feel and hear some quality bass.
never tried this dynamat stuff but i will have to once i get my ILX.

How easy is it to apply and remove dynamat?
I would recommend professional installation unless you're familiar with insulations and car audio installations.. It's going to require to remove the panels under which you want to apply the dynamat, cut it to fit, roll it on to apply, cut the connectors and any holes that maybe required for functional parts. It takes some time to apply to each door. I would rate it as harder that installing a 4-channel amp to door speakers. In short.. find a reliable installer to do it, my recommendation. I cannot stress how drastic even your factory speakers will improve and your overall cabin noise from the road, exhaust and other variables.
 

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Based on personal results, I am pretty skeptical about how effective Dynamat is.

If anybody could measure the dB levels before and after Dynamat installation, I'd be interested. If you can get dB vs frequency, that's even better!

I recently had Dynamat professionally installed in my 06 Civic LX coupe (tire noise sounds like commercial jets taking off). The effects on noise reduction were negligible (measuring with a dBC sound meter - yes, I know that dBA exists too, but dBC was all I had to work with). I got ~79 dBC going 40 mph on a stretch of OR-20 on my way to work both before and after.

I covered every surface of bare sheet metal except for the roof. I also added a quarter inch of Dynamat foam to the floor in addition to Dynamat Extreme. The installers did not clean the sheet metal before applying the Dynamat; however, I am unsure how much effect this would have, unless sheet metal is so dirty that the adhesive fails to stick.

On the plus side, my car is now better insulated with respect to temperature. It takes longer for the inside of the car to freeze on a cold day than before...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Based on personal results, I am pretty skeptical about how effective Dynamat is.

If anybody could measure the dB levels before and after Dynamat installation, I'd be interested. If you can get dB vs frequency, that's even better!

I recently had Dynamat professionally installed in my 06 Civic LX coupe (tire noise sounds like commercial jets taking off). The effects on noise reduction were negligible (measuring with a dBC sound meter - yes, I know that dBA exists too, but dBC was all I had to work with). I got ~79 dBC going 40 mph on a stretch of OR-20 on my way to work both before and after.

I covered every surface of bare sheet metal except for the roof. I also added a quarter inch of Dynamat foam to the floor in addition to Dynamat Extreme. The installers did not clean the sheet metal before applying the Dynamat; however, I am unsure how much effect this would have, unless sheet metal is so dirty that the adhesive fails to stick.

On the plus side, my car is now better insulated with respect to temperature. It takes longer for the inside of the car to freeze on a cold day than before...
Hmm.. that's really odd. I would refer to actual metered tests (Dynamat official postings or otherwise) for the decible levels.

I can however say from all of my experiences the difference was very noticeable.. most noted would be the effect of sealing the doors on the speaker performance. I am sorry your experience wasn't the same though, I really have no explanation for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
It's a luxury car. You aren't supposed to be taking corners at any serious speeds.

But they have already developed a sway bar for the ILX. Built not bought buddy. Go make your ilx confident.
LOL thanks for the tips.

About cornering, it wasn't about race car speeds.. as for references to luxury cars.. SH-AWD TL, BMWs, Lexus has RWD and performance models, Mercedes, Infiniti all put effort into making their cars confident in turns.. however, EACH are Luxury cars......................

I should also note that not only throughout the forum but even within this rant I stated that I planned on going with a more aggressive suspension set up.. I have also owned a TSX which wasn't a body roll filled, slushy, numb steering monster as the ILX.. it was also a luxury car.
 

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I didn't read through the entire thread I just commented on the initial post.
My bad for coming off a bit rash.

The cars you named have easily 10grand added to the sticker price. So either the ILX cost waaay more for or you can build the car you really want.
Build not bought is my way of thinking. Id rather a cheaper car to mod then 500$ monthly payments with everything I want.

What suspension are you looking into? Sorry, I don't want to read through everything.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No issues here.

I fully intend to mod my car, I did since day one; the stock suspension is just disappointing for its class, the TSX is superior in handling and is similarly tagged. But, this isn't to say I don't love the car.

I am pretty settled on TEIN Advance coilovers with Eibach front & rear sway bars, camber bolts front and maybe skunk rear lower control arms. I am about 90% sure.. Maybe riding the wave a bit more to see what other manufactures make parts.
 

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Maybe riding the wave a bit more to see what other manufactures make parts.
^^THIS

Though Id go full fledged into the TEIN coilovers and Eibach swaybars. IMO I'd wait on the rest to see where companies go and if things get cheaper.
 
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