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Discussion Starter #1
With the r18 and the r20 being very similar engines. r18 being 1.8 liter r20 being 2.0
R20 also has longer rods and crank but is essenitally the same engine.

With that said...
Full-Race Civic R18 Turbo Kit FAQ | Full-Race.com

Full-Race Civic R18 Turbo Kit FAQ

If you are seriously considering forced induction on your R18 - read this FAQ. It was written to help answer many common questions, and discuss the special attributes that make the R-series engines from Honda great for boost. If there is something you need to know not listed, please email [email protected] and we'll help. The information contained herein has taken years of hard work from many smart people to compile. If you are serious about turbocharging your car, and do not yet understand turbochargers, Full-Race highly recommends reading these two books to get prepared for boost.
■"Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell
■"Street Turbocharging" by Mark Warner - (Full-Race contributed to this book)


R-Series Engines

Honda Motor company designed the lightweight low-friction "R-Series engines" for excellent fuel efficiency/MPG, low emissions, and long life. Found in 2006+ non-Si Civics (R18) and international Accords and CRVs (R20), the R-series cylinder head features an integrated exhaust manifold for maximum exhaust heat energy and "fast catalytic converter warmup". The downside to this cylinder head design is poor "All-Motor" Naturally-Aspirated power ... However, the upside of this design from a performance enthusiast perspective is it's perfect for a turbokit: the increased heat energy which normally helps to warm up the cat faster - now helps spool the turbo faster (which is just fine by us turbo honda afficionados).
 

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Glad to know the R-Series engine is turbo friendly, not that I had the impression it wasn`t, just that this information sheds some light on the subject and might be inspiration to look into it.

Now I just wonder what boost range we`ll be safe at if we want to make an R-series honda a fun daily that`ll be reliable?
 

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Theres no doubt that the R20 is reliable but that depends how much power your running when going with force induction. I'd probably say that the R20 would be good for about a shy of 400hp and if anymore you would have to do some reinforcing. Such better head studs, valves, retainers and possibly even sleeves. It's only a matter of time till someone complains about the hp their ILX and goes with an aftermarket turbo kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Of course there is a market. Anyone with the 2.4 ilx or civic si has an R series they want to tune.
2.4 seems to be better run NA and the 2.0 is more boost friendly.

That write up is explaining why the 2.0 R will take more boost than a 2.4 K. Exactly how much isnt known since its namely just average people boosting them that dont have the means to dyno before and after or the luxury of blowing an engine to see how far itll go.
 

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I would be interested in some more horsepower for my ILX but probably not turbo. I would be more interested in a supercharger, Form what ive seen in the past for the TSX owners there was more of a market for superchargers vs turbos. I think theres a bit more support too. I want a more linear power range rather than lag and then all of a sudden everything at once. Depends on the tune too but I think for me around 280-300hp would be enough.
 

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From what I read on other forums about the civics with boost, any tranny in the 8th gen would only be able to hand 350hp. Depends too, with an automatic transmission It would just get too confused.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You can tune an auto tranny as just a manual. If you get it tuned you can change the shift points to push a much more efficient run.
350hp sounds fantastic. Im game. You wont be able to do much with all that power anyhow.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Cars get more than enough air flow from underneath the car that companies just use the front fascia for cosmetic purposes.
The two openings that fan open from the center have openings towards the middle to allow air to go directly in.

Buying an intercooler would eliminate that issue, but.. would one fit is the question. I assume the honda endurance ilx had one fit.
 

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im wondering about the innercooler not getting enough air.. the front end of the ilx has no mouth..
The two vents on either side have ducts that point the air directly at the radiator. The grille has a duct that forces air in from the top, also under your car the splash gaurd has a mild diffuser that pushes air up into the bay area.

Cars get more than enough air flow from underneath the car that companies just use the front fascia for cosmetic purposes.
The two openings that fan open from the center have openings towards the middle to allow air to go directly in.

Buying an intercooler would eliminate that issue, but.. would one fit is the question. I assume the honda endurance ilx had one fit.
The Endurance Racer ILX was naturally aspirated. As far as fitment goes, the ducts on the front bumper go NEAR flush to the radiator. I am sure you could shove a intercooler in there, but it would most likely require you to dremel about an inch of the duct off.. well worth it if you're going F/I in my opinion. I assume a lot of the R18 parts will work with the R20, you just need a tuning solution.
 

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There are plenty of local shops that can do tunes. A couple honda/acura specifics too. But I wont run a tuned ECU for a loooong time. Not until the car is mine anyways.
With these new Honda ECUs you have to get them unlocked or find a way to use a different ECU from a different car that is unlocked. Honda has made it a bit more difficult to mod anymore with their leaning ECUs.

Hopes would be there is a market for the R20 tuning and that Hondata works on Flashpro for it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
There are options out there. Id need to get into my old forums and see but I know there is an ECU out there that works great. I'll post up once Ive looked into it. There are two versions of the one I have in mind. One for older model hondas and another that will work for all of them.
 

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AEM actually makes a good stand alone system.. but those are pretty pricey. But, they also give you more control; in more cases than not. Definitely post up what you find.
 

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Question: what will modifying or replacing the ECU do to the factory warranty?
By law the servicer had to be able to prove it was the modification that created the issue in questioned. Usually a modfied ECU is pretty easy to blame.. But they can't void your warranty as a whole. It would be strictly case by case but a simple set of bolt-ons and a tune, you shouldn't have any issues anyways.
 
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